Hello from the stunning city of Córdoba! This place has earned a true and really surprising place in both of our hearts: we had no idea what to expect, and only ended up visiting because we happened across their super cool Roman bridge on Google Maps! But it turned out to be one of our favourite places in Spain: full of traditions and culture, this city is at the heart of the fusion of Moorish and European influences. The Mezquita, Córdoba's Mosque-Cathedral, is the perfect example of this, and a really unique place to visit if you're nearby. While many people on the Andalusian trail favour Malaga over Córdoba, we were so glad that we stayed inland. From the beautiful winding streets full of flowers and Córdoban bakeries, to some incredible people and once-in-a-lifetime experiences, we were counting our lucky stars that we chose Cordoba.
Eating Vegan in Córdoba
“I like the south of Spain, notably for the Moorish vigour and the weather." – Alexei Sayle
Just like the architecture and unique culture of Córdoba, the food here was absolutely delicious and packed with multicultural influences. Ancient Rome, nearby Morocco, and of course traditional Andalusian and Spanish flavours all feature within the local dishes that you can sample around the city. But how is this eclectic and unique place for vegans? Well we have good news! We were a little hesitant, thinking that it might be more difficult to get quality plant-based food here. And, to be honest, it wasn't quite as easy as in, say, Barcelona, Seville, or Granada - but that is to be expected in a slightly smaller and less touristy city. But wow, the vegan food that we found here was absolutely incredible: I definitely did not feel like we were missing out at all! Read on, then watch the video at the bottom of the page, to find out what and where we ate vegan in lovely Córdoba.
1st: Pizzeria Verde Rucola
Pl. de Vista Alegre, 12, 14004 Córdoba, Spain
Now there's one thing I need you to know about Mike and I: we LOVE pizza. Now you might think that this means that pizza joints like Pizzeria Verde Rucola would automatically gain the top spot in our lists... but this couldn't be further from the truth. We both have really high standards when it comes to pizza, so if a pizza is at all underwhelming it would actually fare worse on our lists. So when we put Pizzeria Verde Rucola top of our list of places to eat vegan in Córdoba, we're not doing this lightly. It is THAT good.
This pizzeria is a little bit of a walk from where we were staying in the main tourist area of Córdoba, but we were enticed to stroll over there one evening, after seeing their comprehensive vegan pizza menu. Though this restaurant also serves meat and dairy, this vegan menu is a large part of why they are so popular, and we saw many people ordering from it while we were there. With a wide choice of vegan meat substitutes, as well as vegetable pizzas, and a variety of vegan cheesy toppings, we were very excited to give this place a go. And we were impressed from the outset: the pizzeria itself is comfortable, and the staff were really friendly and helpful too.
And you bet we didn't hold back. We ordered a pizza each from their menu, in medium size (they also serve a larger option which is perfect for sharing). And this pizza was both sizeable and delicious - we could not stop eating, even when we became a little full! Mike ordered the wurstel cipolla vegana, which cost €11 (approx. £9.39 or $11.96). This pizza was topped with the pizzeria's homemade marinara sauce, slices of vegan sausage, and huge rings of onion - as well as plenty of their vegan mozzarella. The onions complemented the vegan sausage really well here - though the vegan sausage didn't have tonnes of flavour, it did have a really great texture, and we loved the caramelised sweetness to the onions. But a big highlight for Mike was the pizza dough, which was so tasty and easy to eat, with the tomato and vegan mozzarella finishing it off really well!
I was feeling ready to eat a tonne of vegetables on this particular day (travelling and eating does take its toll sometimes!) so I ordered the ortolana vegana. This pizza came piled with fresh Mediterranean vegetables: pepper, courgette, and loads of aubergine, which was exactly what I had hoped for! This pizza cost less than Mike's, at €9.50 (approx. £8.11 or $10.32). Both were really great value for money, considering the fresh ingredients and quality toppings, but wow, this is an extra great price for such a hearty pizza! And oh my goodness, it was so delicious: their vegan cheese is incredible, really tasty and with a little stretch too! The tomato base was perfect, not too overpowering, and the crust was really delicious too. The vegetables were fresh and tasty, and exactly what I fancied - they were a little messy to eat though, being cut so long! I would definitely recommend a napkin if you're trying this one!
Overall, if you are looking for some hearty, quality vegan food in a great atmosphere, you absolutely have to try Pizzeria Verde Rucola. It might be a little bit of a walk, but I promise you it is worth it - I would totally walk back for another one right now!
2nd: Restaurante Amaltea
Rda. de Isasa, 10, 14003 Córdoba, Spain
If you've been following our blogs or videos, you'll recognise Restaurante Amaltea as the place that we headed to in order to try the traditional Córdoban tapas dish, salmorejo!
This restaurant is well loved in Córdoba, among tourists and locals alike, and it was easy to see why! What looks like an unassuming little place on the outside actually feels like a vibrant Andalusian living room on the inside, with attractive pine and wicker furniture, bright pink and orange walls, quality decor and plants. The staff are super friendly and helpful, and there really is a menu for everyone! Though their standard menu includes meat and dairy, they have a separate vegetarian menu, and a further, separate vegan menu too! We thought that their prices were really reasonable, and the food quality was very high, with their presentation second to none too.
Though we only tried the salmorejo at Amaltea, there was a lot more on the menu that we would have tried if we hadn't been so filled up by the soup! I particularly fancied their vegan lasagne, but after my bowl of salmorejo, and the bread that was served to the table in a pretty basket, I had no room for a main course! But wow: the salmorejo itself was so flavoursome. This cold soup is packed with tomatoes and vegetables, as well as being thickened with breadcrumbs (you can read more about the history and our experience of salmorejo in our salmorejo blog!) It was totally different to anything we had ever tried before, and at €8 per portion (approx. £6.83 or $8.69) which we though was a great price for a full lunch for us. If you've got a bigger appetite, it is actually listed on their menu as a starter - if your appetite is a bit smaller, maybe don't eat all the table bread like we did. With the bread in the soup as well, we probably ate a whole loaf!
Overall, we were really impressed with our experience here at Amaltea and it is another place that we would have loved to go back to if we'd had longer in Córdoba. We also had our first taste of radish shoots too: an unusual topping that made us really excited by its vibrancy and flavour! Go check them out!
3rd: Healthy Poke Córdoba
Av. de los Piconeros, s/n, 14001 Córdoba, Spain
On our first day in Córdoba we wandered out to Healthy Poke because we both really fancied something a bit lighter for lunch! This salad and sandwich bar is next to a large gym, so as you'd expect there are lots of healthy choices on the menu. This includes plenty of vegetarian, and some vegan options too. We were delighted that they use Heura in their vegan dishes: this Spanish mock chicken is one of our favourites that we have found across the world, so we are always excited to see it!
The atmosphere of the Poke bar felt very relaxed and comfortable - it wasn't very busy when we visited, but there were a lot of delivery drivers coming in and out. So if you don't fancy the walk to Healthy Poke, there are delivery options available too! We really loved the opportunity to see a bit more of Córdoba too (Mike and I love a walk).
I ordered the Veggie Heura Salad, which cost €8.95 (approx. £7.65 or $9.72) and was packed with some of my all time favourite things. From chilled pasta, rocket leaves, tasty Heura, sweetcorn, guacamole, diced peppers and onions, sunflower seeds... honestly, all these ingredients are among my favourite things, so I was a very happy Kyra! The portion of pasta was really generous which pleased me, and made it really filling (so filling in fact, that Mike had to help me finish it off!) But the excellent mix of vegan components made for a really fresh and delicious lunch - the price was a little high, but I respect the price of all these fresh ingredients, made to order, can't be cheap! It is something that I would definitely order again!
Mike went for The Vegan Sandwich, which was a little cheaper at €6.45 (approx. £5.51 or $7.01). This felt like a good price for this freshly prepared and toasted sandwich, which even came with a little portion of root vegetable crisps. We hadn't known this, and had ordered some separately - this was even more of a joy though, as they were really tasty! The Vegan Sandwich was incredible, better than we could have even imagined! Mike loved that the sun dried tomatoes basically tasted like bacon, and was surprised by how doughy the bread was, it was lightly toasted and scrumptious. The star of the show was the Heura in the sandwich though - Heura just never fails to be good!
4th: Manolas
C. Cardenal Herrero, 8, 14003 Córdoba, Spain
A worthy place to round off this list is Manolas, an empanada bakery right next to Córdoba's famous Mezquita. You might recognise Manolas from our vegan empanadas in Córdoba blog, where we talk all about the history of this famous Spanish pastry, and our experiences of trying them here.
Needless to say, we absolutely loved the empanadas here - in fact, the only reason that they are fourth on this list is because there are only a small number of vegan options, and the other vegan food in Córdoba was just so good! We tried three of the four vegan choices that were available on the day: the vegan bolognese and quinoa empanada (€3.90 - approx. £3.33 or $4.24), the wok fried veg empanada, and the apple, walnut and sultana empanada (both €3.50 each - approx. £2.99 or $3.80).
All three of these artisan pastry parcels were absolutely packed with delicious filling, and we loved the balance between traditional and more innovative flavours too. What each of these empanadas had in common was how melt-in-the-mouth their delicious pastry was, and the hearty and tastiness of the fillings. While Mike's favourite was the rich and flavoursome bolognese empanada, and mine was the sweet and juicy apple one, we both agreed that these plant-based empanadas were all an absolute joy to eat. And to be able to grab these and then sit on a ledge outside of the Mezquita, in Córdoba's picturesque historic centre, was a dream. What's more, this place offers meal deals too: the three empanadas, with a can of drink, came to €10.90 (approx. £9.32 or $11.84). So convenient, and so delicious: what's not to love?
Where is your favourite place to get plant-based food in Córdoba? Are there any new places or old favourites that we've missed? Leave us a comment to let us know (and others who might be visiting too!)
Recommendations
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Where should I stay?
After our trip to Barcelona, we were relieved to discover that accommodation is much more affordable in Andalusia! Córdoba is full of quaint hotels with great reputations, at reasonable prices. One of the most highly rated hotels is Patios del Orfebre which offers clean and comfortable rooms close to some of the best tourist attractions. For even more affordability, there are lots of great hostels in Córdoba. Líbere Córdoba Patio Santa Marta is really highly rated across the board, with a choice of private or dorm rooms, a pool, and newly refurbished, modern facilities - including simple smartphone check in - with a really convenient location too.
Tours & Experiences
Córdoba is the ancestral home of flamenco, and while we were in the city we visited Tablao El Cardenal for their flamenco show. This authentic courtyard performance wowed us both: the performers were so talented, and this booking link provides you with a free drink too! We had the sangria and very much recommend it!
There's so much to see and do in Córdoba though, so if flamenco isn't for you, why not check out some of the top-rated Viator tours displayed in the widget on the left!
Please note that the tours displayed on the left are automatically selected for their popularity by Viator, not chosen or recommended by us. Please check whether any food or drink based tours are suitable for your dietary requirements, and any animal-based experiences are ethical, before booking!