Please note that due to the current economic situation in Türkiye, prices are very variable and may change rapidly. The prices quotes are those we paid in October 2023 - please check current menus for the most up to date prices.
If you've been following our journey through Türkiye so far, you'll know that we started off in the incredible city of Istanbul, where we found loads of amazing vegan food! Not only did we try plenty of international dishes in the city, there was so much quality when it came to traditional Turkish food made vegan too. From döner kebap, to Turkish Delight, and loads of street food, we really though that Istanbul was a haven for vegans!
When it was time to move on from Istanbul, we wondered if our vegan experience in Türkiye would have already peaked. But little did we know the best was yet to come! Next up on our route through this wonderfully welcoming country was the capital, Ankara. We were excited to see what life in this slightly lesser travelled Turkish city held for us, and we would not be disappointed! And what did we need before we started exploring on the first morning we woke up in Ankara? A hearty breakfast, of course! And the first thing we had in mind was the traditional Turkish dish, börek. Read on, then watch the video at the bottom of this place, to check out the börek we tried!
But wait, what exactly is börek?
Though it comes in many different shapes, depending on the region you buy it in, börek is at its heart, a filled flaky pastry dish. Originally developed to imitate bread, but still be easy enough for nomadic Turks to prepare and carry while on their journeys, this dish has become a staple here, and across the Middle East too.
Sometimes prepared in a large square, sometimes a spiral, and other times small individual rolls, börek can be found across Türkiye. However, it isn't usually vegan: generally the pastry might contain butter, and the fillings can range from vegetables to cheese, and even meat too. So while börek can sometimes be made vegan, you really need to know where to go if you want to try this legendary pastry dish while you're in Türkiye.
Where did we try vegan börek in Ankara?
We headed to Terradan Vegan Pub, a modern yet cosy pub in the heart of Ankara. It was a really nice day when we visited, so we sat outside to eat our breakfast, but there is loads of space and plenty of equally comfy tables indoors too. They have friendly service, loads of drinks, and a menu (accessed via QR code) full of incredible sounding plant-based pub delights!
So come on - tell us all about the börek! How did it taste?
Though we visited at breakfast time, there were two kinds of börek on the menu: so of course, we ordered both! My appetite was a little smaller on this morning, so I ordered the fried börek starter. These fried pastry rolls somewhat resembled spring rolls, but the filling was very different! But wow: I was really impressed by how much börek actually tastes like bread, it was really impressive! Generally, I could see why this dish was listed as a starter, and I would say it is definitely one for sharing! The filling was a tangy, herby vegan cheese - with just these börek rolls and a little salad on the plate, they became a little samey after a while. But as a taster between a few people before a main meal, these börek would be a great little treat!
For an extra 10₺, Mike treated himself to the börek breakfast. This was a great choice and we'd really recommend! Not only did this plate contain a smaller, but still sufficient, number of börek, there was also a big pile of well-seasoned chips, salad, tomatoes, olives, and houmous. All these different textures and flavours, and the contrast between the warmth of the chips and houmous, and the cool and refreshing side dishes, made for a really delicious breakfast. In particular, Mike enjoyed the chips and the houmous - which is a big compliment to Terradan Vegan Pub, since he usually hates houmous!
How much did the plant-based börek cost - and was it worth it?
We were really impressed by the quality and prices at Terradan Vegan Pub. Though not as expensive as Istanbul, as the capital city, Ankara can be a little pricey. But Terradan offered really good value for money.
My fried börek starter cost 90₺ (approx. £2.43, €2.83, or $3.10), which we thought was already a pretty good price. But for just 10₺ more, Mike got the whole, hearty börek breakfast! Priced at just 100₺ (approx. £2.70, €3.14, or $3.44), we were really impressed by the börek breakfast: not only was it hearty and wholesome, it allowed us to have a taste of the börek without having too many - the variety definitely allowed them to shine! Overall, we'd wholeheartedly recommend a trip to Terradan Vegan Pub while you're in Ankara, whether for some börek, or even just to hang out and soak up the atmosphere.
Have you tried vegan börek in Türkiye? Or elsewhere in the world! Where did you go and what did you think of it? Let us know in the comments below.
Recommendations
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Where should I stay?
As you might expect from a capital city, there are plenty of places to stay in Ankara, but many of them come at a much higher price than we were able to pay. We stayed at Deeps Hostel, Ankara, which offers private en suite, and dorm rooms too - with a friendly welcome and some nice social areas, we really recommend checking this place out!
Or if a hotel is more your thing, Mithat Hotel offer very cost effective rooms in a good location, with friendly staff and a 24 hour food service available.
Tours & Experiences
There's a lot to see and do in Ankara, and as you might imagine the capital city is quite spreat out. If you have plenty of time you can absolutely explore it yourself, on foot, or using Ankara's excellent public transport.
But if you would prefer to see the sights with a guide, or have the journey around Ankara planned for you, why not try this Private Guided Walking Tour?
Alternatively, if that's not for you, check out one of Viator's most favourite and highly rated tours and experiences on the left!
Please note that the tours displayed on the left are automatically selected for their popularity by Viator, not chosen or recommended by us. Please check whether any food or drink based tours are suitable for your dietary requirements, and any animal-based experiences are ethical, before booking!